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We're so lucky to have received a guest contribution from Dan Duggan, a freelance photographer and videographer from Yorkshire. Have a read to hear all about his experience in the stunning village of Glencoe, and figure out if wild camping is for you...
Nestled in the Scottish Highlands is a village that you might not even notice you’d passed through were it not marked on the map. If you’re looking for quaint, Glencoe offers a rural escape without being completely disconnected from civilisation. But what’s impossible to miss are the staggering surroundings.
When standing in the Glencoe Valley, with towering monuments to nature filling my periphery, it was impossible not to be reminded of our insignificance on the planet, and in the universe.
But before the existential crisis completely took me over, I remembered that several James Bond films were shot there, and Judi Dench was potentially once standing in that very same spot. Then I was humbled in a completely different way. And if Judi is anything like me, she too will have stumbled face first into a hidden ditch while trying to take a photo of a deer. Oh deer indeed.
It’s worth saying at this point that Glencoe is definitely a spot for the more adventurous traveller. The village is popular as a “base camp” for many mountaineers and hikers, so the local amenities should meet your basic needs, with various local shops, restaurants, and public toilets, covering your food’s journey from entrance to exit.
It may seem crass, but public toilets aren’t something to be scoffed at when you’re this deep into the countryside. Especially if you’re wild camping. The last thing you’d want is to be caught short on a country lane with a golden eagle circling above, waiting for a vulnerable moment.
Point being, don’t expect a service station every 10 miles on your journey. If you’re travelling up through the highlands from the south like I did, the surroundings, while beautiful, are pretty devoid of signs of human life. Even when you’re in the village, you can’t escape nature’s imposition. A local restaurant, the “Glencoe Gathering” is directly across the road from the mountain rescue station which really puts things into perspective.
In terms of accommodation in Glencoe there are a few options. Several hotels dotted around the area, some more rural than others, have room prices averaging around £120 per night, for example The Glencoe Inn. Although, some very up-market venues run rates in excess of £500 per night, for example a suite in this luxury guesthouse.
There is also the option of a local campsite, which is just up the road from the village and Invercoe caravan and motorhome park, on the waterfront of Loch Leven, directly next to the village.
Alternatively, if you want to stay for free you can do what I did, and fully immerse yourself in nature by trying a spot of wild camping.
In the rest of the UK, wild camping (camping outside of a designated campsite) is illegal without landowner permission. However, thanks to Scotland’s Right To Roam laws, you can pitch a tent wherever you’d like. Exceptions apply in places of enclosed land like someone’s garden, on farmland, or a nuclear power station etc. Also, Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park have “Camping Management Zones” so be sure to consult their website before setting up camp.
Wild campers must abide by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, leave no trace of their stay, and try not to be an eyesore on the landscape. As magical as it may seem to plonk your brightly coloured festival tent so that you get the best view, it’s important to be considerate of your fellow Sightseekrs and the environment. Read up on local bylaws and regulations and you’ll do just fine.
Once you’re sure you won’t be seeing the end of an angry farmer’s shotgun, wild camping is one of the most immersive experiences you can have in nature. In the evening, as you construct your small settlement for the night, you can be treated to some of the most spectacular sights imaginable. Watch the sky melt into a burnt orange and the grass glow on the mountainsides in the distance, as the sun sinks below the horizon. Then crane your neck upwards and feel the light of tens of thousands of stars glisten in your eyes after travelling for millions of years to reach you. You can remain in that constant state of awe that Glencoe inspires long into the night.
Or you can be like me, sweaty and tired after driving since 6AM and unable to find a public shower (a notable exception to the otherwise plentiful local amenities) so decide to take a quick dip in Loch Linnhe to cool off from the 24 degree humidity. Then very quickly learn that air temperature is not indicative of water temperature and nearly go into cold water shock (See RNLI advice on wild swimming here).
Then return to the spot you’d scouted out earlier in the day and set up your tent in complete darkness as the thick cloud cover smothers not only the stars, but any speckle moonlight that would help you put your poles in the right holes.
Travelling isn’t always as glamorous as it seems on Instagram, but I often find that we learn more from things going wrong and have better stories because of it. For example, I learned that there is quite a lot of very confident, very nocturnal wildlife knocking about in Glencoe’s forests. And that, when mixed with the sound of creaking trees and the wind rustling a very thin fly-sheet, the sounds of nature can be more reminiscent of The Blair Witch Project than of Countryfile.
That being said, it’s definitely something I’d do again. Admittedly I might pick a slightly less desolate spot so as to ease the lurking paranoia, but even then, it’s a price worth paying to open up that zip and flood your tent with the warmth of sunlight at dawn. To step outside, stretching and rubbing your eyes, seeing the morning haze sitting peacefully on the water. All without the scent of a toilet block filling your nostrils. Pure bliss.
Just don’t forget your trowel!
Additional information:
How long should I spend in Glencoe?
Glencoe has so much to see in it's beautiful surroundings, so if you're wanting to go on walks and explore the nature close by, you'll need at least a couple of days. Glencoe is also a great base to explore other nearby towns and attractions if you want to stay a little longer. For example, it's only a 50 minute drive to Oban and just over 25 minutes to Fort William.
How do I get to Glencoe?
Glencoe is most accessible by car if you're coming from elsewhere in the UK and driving is an option for you. The nearest international airport is Glasgow, which has direct flights from many major cities in Europe. You can also get close to Glencoe by train, then take a bus. The nearest train station is Fort William.
You can get from other cities in Scotland to Glencoe via CityLink buses.
Where shall I stay in Glencoe?
If wild camping doesn't sound like your thing, you can search for accommodation in Glencoe to suit your group size and budget below:
Is wild camping legal in Glencoe?
Yes, wild camping is completely legal across Scotland unless you're on enclosed land (like someone's garden). You must also abide by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, leave no trace of your stay, and try not to be an eyesore on the landscape.
Do I need a visa to visit Glencoe?
Citizens of most countries do not need a Visa to visit Scotland for a stay of up to 90 days, as the UK is part of the Schengen Agreement.
What's the weather like in Glencoe?
Well we're talking about Scotland, so most likely it will be pretty cloudy, windy, rainy, cold, or all of the above! Although in Summer the temperatures definitely pick up, so this is the best season for wild camping.
Here's the average high / low temperatures for each season in Glencoe:
Spring: 11°C / 5°C
Summer: 17°C / 11°C
Autumn: 11°C / 7°C
Winter: 7°C / 3°C
Here's the current weather in Glencoe:
Make sure to have a look at Dan's incredible photography Instagram here, and give him a follow. Who knows, you might just see inspiration for your next trip on there!
